Posted by: gourmetfelted | October 20, 2012

Giveaway! FREE FELTING WOOL from Gourmet Felted! What is your best Needle Felting TIP? 2012 Contest!

Would you like to win some Free wool of your choice just for a felting tip? Now you can try a new felting fiber for free! The picture shows alpaca which I use the most! It is my favorite for fur as it is soft and fluffy! I also have core wool in different animal colors for faster felting!  My core wool is not trash wool and can be used to make any short haired dog as the only wool. I never use merino for the core as that takes too long to felt as it is so fine. The core wool is coarse and felts together in a jiffy! Then I add a layer of fluffy alpaca or curly wool for fun! I also have cute wool curls in different colors.

All you have to do is tell me the best tip that has really helped in your needle felting adventure! Leave the tip in a comment with a wool choice ($10 value) (see link below) The best felting tip that can help the most people is the winner. Winner will be picked on NOVEMBER 1, 2012!

To leave your tip just click on “leave a comment” below.

Go here to pick out the wool of your choice!

http://www.etsy.com/shop/GourmetFelted?section_id=5642801

Happy Felting!

~Gerry


Responses

  1. Here is one of my favorites :

    “What you want to do is push the needle in ,so that ALL of the barbs go to work! Yes, you will have to stab slower this way, but you will be felting so much more at a time!! Use a #36 coarse needle and push it in about 1/2 inch. ”

    This tip alone has helped me tremendously!!

    Thank you for all your wonderful information!

  2. Save real dog hair to use as your top layer over core wool to add to the realism of dog figures. This also saves money because it’s free!

  3. Hi there,the best tip I can give is to slow down when you work. I used to go like a bull at a gate stabbing madly just mainly out of excitement to get the work finished. Now I find a slower more even pace works a lot better and produces a better result. When I say slower I don’t mean really slow, I just mean slow down and work the wool evenly. Working slowly and deeply with the needle to start with then slowly and decisively when finishing gives better even results.
    I have my eyes on the beautiful alpaca wool, should I chance to win.
    Thank you for the opportunity.
    Lesley.

  4. Hi all, I’m just learning needle felting and having a little trouble getting eyes to line up. I tried using ball-head pins to position the eyes and that works good except when I have to remove pin to attach eye I sometimes lose placement. So I tried this tip: Take a thin strip of contrasting wool and place it on head to “draw” a guideline across face to help get eyes (and ears too) all lined up correctly. Lightly attach the wool line at each end to keep in place with a few pokes of the needle. Make a horizontal line and a vertical line for each eye if that helps. Do not permanently attach this wool line…it’s just a guide. Yank it out to remove it after you have your eyes sewn in (or glued).

  5. Here’s a tip for newbies to needle-felting that is often left out of tutorials. Pull the amount of wool you need off your hank of wool roving (don’t cut it off) and then pull that handful of wool apart again and again and again to mix up the alignment of fibers. On my first project I didn’t do this and could see straight lines of fiber in the felting that didn’t look natural on the dog.

  6. Well, my best tip is don’t give up. If you get frustrated, walk away, for a day or two if you have to. Then come back and look at the piece closely from all angles and in different light sources. Then stand back and look at it as a whole. by giving your self some distance and time,for your frustration to cool down, you can look at it from a whole new perspective and see what needs to be changed to improve it. Also showing pics to your friends and asking for their opinions helps a lot too.
    My choice would be the core wool: http://www.etsy.com/listing/60033895/needle-felting-core-wool-eco-friendly

  7. Hello, I always place a hardcover book on my knee. Then the foam pad which I use. Before using the book, I would always stab myself when felting in front of the TV.
    Hugs, joey.

  8. Just getting started in felting but your site is so helpful. I have mostly done wet felting but I’d say the biggest thing your blog does is give me inspiration and the confidence that I can move on to 3D needle felting. Also, I recently received “The Lovely Blog Award,” and I have the opportunity to pass it on. Here are the rules if you choose to accept: http://365daybook.wordpress.com/2012/10/22/chain-letter/

  9. I found that foam painting dabbers work we’ll for making hollow hats, baskets and buckets. You have to look for the type without the big wooden stick in the center. I found a nice dense foam set at Joann fabrics. I hope to win the tip contest to get the great pale beige curly fiber to make my shi tzu. Thank you

  10. Working from photos, drawings, and field guides has helped me tremendously. Studying photos has helped my animals, especially their proportions, look way more realistic! I print off photos of the animal in different positions. Then I try to determine what the basic shape is of each part of the animal. For example, an owl body is an upright cylinder and it’s head is a little log (or sausage) turned on its side. I use those basic shapes to felt the core and then I add details.

    Thank you for all your great tips, Gerry- your work is out of this world!!

    Warm wishes,
    Jessie Dockins

    • Hi Jessie,
      Thank you for your kind words on my sculptures!
      ~Gerry

  11. I find it helpful to photograph my creations and study those to see where any improvements need to be. It shows up and misalignments of ears or eyes or stray hairs. Oddly it also helps to turn the head upside down!

  12. One of the best tips that I was taught when starting out was to make sure your core wool is completely compacted and smooth. I am often asked how I get my sculptures smooth and it is because I take my time and make sure every part of my sculpture is felted evenly and that the final piece is tight before adding the colored wool. To achieve this, I work in small areas at a time and I makes sure the surface is completely even before moving on to another section. To ensure that the final color is smooth, I spread the wool between my first finger and my thumb and then felt it. This will prevent any fly away hairs and create a smooth texture, if that is what you desire. I also use a magnifying glass so I can see any unevenness or loose hairs that I might have missed.

    This is not necessarily a tip but I learned this from another felter. I tend to needle felt in the car or on my lunch break (or anywhere outside of my studio) so it is nice to have a all-in-one carrier to protect my sculpture, needles and the rest of my supplies. I recommend the Snap N Stack organizers. They come in different sizes and they make a wonderful carrier for felters on the go. I keep my foam in the bottom so I can felt right out of the container.

    http://www.joann.com/snap-n-stack-craft-organizer-medium-rectangle-2-layers/prd790954/

    Gerry, thank you for your wonderful blogs. I have learned so much from you and I see an improvement in my work. Your work is amazing.

    Denise
    Noahs Novelties

  13. Hi Gerry I love your blog. I am an Elementary Art teacher and new to felting. My felting tip Is; I use a how to draw instruction sheet for what ever I am felting. You can find these on the internet. However I use a How to draw children’s book which shows my subject. The steps for drawing the characters or animals make it so much easier to get anatomy proportions right. Often you can even make your animal the same size as the picture in the instructions. Then just hold your animal up to the drawing and see exactly where it could be off. Horses are my passion and seem to be very hard to felt realistically. This tip has helped me tremendously. I hope to win your tip contest to get the Eco Friendly Alpaca Wool listed at your Etsy shop site.

  14. Start small with your wool. Its easier to add then it is sometimes to make your parts smaller.


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